Tastes like Wet Animals at Telegraph


Telegraph on Urbanspoon

I had the pleasure of trying Telegraph, a cute, contemporary restaurant with a new foodie friend, Lakshmi who blogs at Gastronomic Bypass. We had 6:30 reservations on a Friday, perfect after a long week and a clear sign that I getting older.

Telegraph is in Logan Square, right off the main street and populated with plenty of hipsters from the neighborhood. It opened a little over a year ago. The restaurant is divided into 2 rooms, one bar area and one quant area for dining.

As you would imagine, we shared samples of several things for our meal.

  • bosc pears, radicchio, marcona almonds, garrotxa, creamy coriander vinaigrette

This salad was lovely. The coriander vinaigrette gave it a nice floral flavor. It was very flavorful but still a soft, subtle salad. The garrotxa, a pressed cheese made from unpasteurized goat’s milk from Spain, was a nice touch.

  • Sourdough tartine, kinderhook cheese, blueberries, shaved abalone mushrooms, lemon

Just reading the description made me salivate. This dish was great. The bread crunchy and moist as the same time. The toppings work well together, though I personally could have had a few more blueberries.

  • Roasted amish miller 1/2 chicken, shitake mushrooms, pickled pumpkin, carpano antica vermouth, spiced brioche buns

The chicken was lovely, a nice portion, juicy. Overall, I really enjoyed all the seasonal flavors of the dishes. That being said, they served this in concert with the salad and the tartine, so it was borderline cold when we went to eat it. Not a reflection on the food itself, but something to consider when looking at the overall experience.

In addition to the food, Lakshmi and I enjoyed a couple of wines. We let our server recommend pairings based on our meal. Though it is getting into fall, where I prefer more reds, I had a nice orange sparkling wine, which is a dry wine made from white wine grape varieties that have spent some maceration time in contact with the grape skins

Lakshmi had a 2008 weninger from hungary, which we were told from the start was a little different. However when I went to try it I got a whiff of varnish, which tells me it might be oxidized. The wine wasn’t bad, but I wasn’t sold that it tasted how it should. When asking the server – she confidently said that is how it should smell and it has some essence of wet animal. Nope, I’m not making this up. It is what she said. When we responded with a puzzled look, she tried to save helrself by saying you know the cute, cuddling ones, ahh yes of course, those wet animals.

I would definitely say the dessert was the highlight of the meal. We ordered the caramel apple pie, with cheddar cheese crust & tuile, hazelnut streusel, cinnamon whipped creme, and vanilla sauce… the portion was fairly large and the savory and sweet together was perfect.

Overall, glad I went, but there are few things that might prohibit me from putting this on my shortlist.

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